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Fabric Tufted Headboard
Posted On 2011-03-11 , 8:09 PM
I've been wanting a headboard for my bed for a long time. Unfortunately, all the cute ones are hugely expensive. But, with a little bit of creativity (and some help from a friend) I was able to make my own for just under $100. Note: I did manage to find a few of the items on sale, which greatly helped with the price. It might be a little more to make a custom fabric tufted headboard, which is the type of headboard I made, if you don't take the time to find the sales.
I'm going to include the directions below, but click on the image to see the basic tutorial in full size.
Supplies:
- 1/2" Plywood Board
- Two 1x4s (or 1 cut in half)
- 2" thick Foam
- Polyester Upholstery Batting
- Upholstry Fabric
- Spray Adhesive
- Buttons (10 or more)
- Upholstery Thread
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- Upholstery Needle
- Drill
- Staple Gun
- 1/2" Staples
- Scissors
- Wood Screws
- Bolts
- Tape Measure
- Carpet Protector
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Measurements:
Every bed will be slightly different, but I thought I'd post my measurements to give you an idea. I have a standard queen size bed, which is 60" wide. Because I didn't want my headboard to be wider than the bed, I made is 60" wide by 24" tall. This is relatively small for a headboard, because I like them a little smaller. The legs (which attach the headboard to the bed) should go from the floor to 5" from the top of the headboard. In my case, this was 40" tall (that measurement allowed the bottom of the headboard to start right where the top of the mattress ends).
Because I made a shorter headboard, I decided on 2 rows of 5 buttons. I measured these in 10" from the edge of the headboard and did one button every 10" across the board. I started these two rows a little closer to the top of the headboard, rather than having them in the middle, so that they were visible above my pillows on the bed.
Your measurements will likely be slightly different than mine, depending on your own headboard preferences.
Instructions:
- Measure where you want your buttons to sit and drill small holes through the board at each button location
- Spray the board with the adhesive and carefully position foam against the board. Allow a few minutes time for the glue to dry and trim excess foam (the amount of foam you need will vary depending on your headboard measurements. You can buy this by the yard, but if your headboard is taller than 24", you will need to buy at least two yards, as the height of the foam is 24")
- Note: The spray adhesive is very messy. Make sure to put down a carpet protector and spray in a well ventilated area. You may also want to consider goggles, as I got the glue all over my glasses.
- Spray the top of the foam with more adhesive and cover with the batting. Make sure to do this carefully, so there are no folds that will clump the fabric when it is finished.
- Note: You may want to remove the carpet protector and throw it away / recycle it at this time
- Turn the board over and staple the batting in place. See "Corner Instructions" in image tutorial for detailed instructions on stapling the corners of the batting. Trim excess batting (no closer than 1" from the staples)
- Slide fabric under the board, pull tight and staple in place (corners done same as with batting). Trim excess material no cloer than 1" from staples.
- Buttons: This is where it really helps to have two people:
- Double thread your upholstery needle with upholstery thread and push the needle through the hole you drilled (have your partner hold the thread so it is not pulled completely through)
- Thread the needle through the button end and tie the thread to the button, cut thread to remove the needle (at this point, the thread is very loose. Your partner should be holding one end at the back of the headboard and the other end should be tied to the button)
- Have your partner pull the thread until the button is tight against the headboard. With him holding the thread tight, staple the thread against the board. Pull the thread tight the other direction and staple again (so the thread is wrapped around the first staple...See Image).
- Hammer staples in place to hold thread tightly, if needed.
- Repeat with each button.
- Position the legs on either side of the headboard, ending 5" from the top, and screw in place
- Position the finished headboard against your frame and bolt the legs to the frame, if desired
Notes:
- I didn't have to bolt my headboard to the frame, as the bed is right against the corner of my room, but it's definitely something that I would do if I rearranged my room a little.
- I also made my legs a little long. They should have been 40" tall (as I stated at the top) but I made mine 45" inches by mistake. This isn't a major problem. The legs simply go up higher than is recommended, but it seems to work just fine
- You may also want to consider putting some padding on the back of the legs. I didn't, yet, but plan to go back and do this at some point soon as everytime I get on or off the bed I can hear the legs of the headboard hitting the wall.
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| Comment
| | 1. | Hi Connie!
A few things you might mention,
- People could substitute 1/2" plywood instead of the board we used (we were just lazy and it was almost the perfect size as it was; no real waste. The staples might have gone in easier if we had.)
- we used a chalk line to make sure that the lines for the buttons were straight all the way across the board.
- We learned that we might toy with putting the buttons on before doing the fabric edges since they seemed to loosen the fabric up a little bit. (still need to research that)
- If you can, use an electric or pneumatic stapler, my hand is still cramped. ;o)
- by The Helper, 2011-03-18, 2:33 PM
| | 2. | Aren't headboards fun? They make you feel so much cozier; especially the padded ones - and so useful - when reading, when feeling the need to bang your head against the wall, when... nevermind. That was quite an undertaking, Anika.; so was the post. ^.^
- by Marie, 2011-03-12, 5:50 PM
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Buzz it!
